Eye to Eye With a Rattlesnake
When my Canadian friend told me she wanted to see a chuckwalla, I knew exactly where to take her: the Fortynine Palms Oasis Trail in Joshua Tree National Park. It’s a 3.5-mile (5.6 km) round-trip hike with about 660 feet (200 m) of elevation gain, and in my experience, it’s one of the most reliable chuckwalla-spotting trails in the park.
What I conveniently didn’t mention is that this is also the trail where I almost always run into a rattlesnake. Spoiler: the streak survived.
Up, Over, and Down to the Oasis
The trail climbs steadily until you’re walking along a ridge with a sweeping view over the city of Twentynine Palms and the desert rolling out in every direction. (The desert names its towns by counting palm trees, in case you hadn’t noticed. Twentynine Palms. Fortynine Palms. And down by the Salton Sea, Dos Palmas — two palms, for the day someone clearly stopped counting early.)
Eventually the trail tips downhill and drops you into a rocky canyon where the oasis waits. And the oasis is genuinely special. Those fan palms didn’t sprout there by accident, miners planted them back in the early 1900s to mark a natural spring. The water it taps is one of the only year-round sources in this corner of the park, which makes the oasis a vital watering hole for desert bighorn sheep. That’s also why the trail closes during the hottest summer months: so the sheep can drink in peace without a parade of hikers wandering through.
The Rattlesnake That Wanted the High Ground
We were deep in conversation when a hiker just ahead of us shouted, “Rattlesnake!”
The first thing to do is always the same: stop, freeze, and figure out where the snake actually is. We didn’t see it on the trail. The hiker pointed up to a rock right in front of us. There it was, coiled on the boulder, looking down at us at roughly eye level.
Eerie. And unusual — you almost never see them above you. I was not thrilled about the idea of strolling past a rattlesnake at face height, so we did the sensible thing and waited it out. Eventually it slid off just far enough for us to pass safely.
After that, we were on high alert for more snakes, but the only wildlife that turned up was exactly what we came for. The chuckwallas were out in force, perched on rocks, surveying their kingdom and (it being that time of year) presumably scoping out potential mates.
On the way back from the oasis, I kept a close eye on the rock where we’d spotted the rattler earlier. And — lo and behold — it chose that exact moment to cross the trail right in front of us. Rude. But this time, at least, we got the good pictures.
The Quick Trail Guide – Fortynine Palms Oasis Trail
Location: Fortynine Palms Oasis, northern Joshua Tree National Park, Twentynine Palms
Getting there: From Highway 62 in Twentynine Palms, turn south onto Canyon Road and follow it to the parking area at the road’s end. There’s no entrance station on this access road.
Trail length: ~3.5 miles (5.6 km) round trip, out-and-back
Elevation: ~660 ft (200 m) gain
Difficulty: Moderate — short but steep, and fully exposed
Best time of year: October–May, when temperatures are reasonable.
Heads up: The trail is closed in summer to protect the oasis. It’s a critical watering hole for the desert bighorn sheep. No shade and no cell service, so check the forecast and tell someone your plan before you go.
What to bring: More water than you think you need, sun protection, sturdy sneakers, and a camera for the chuckwallas (and the occasional photogenic rattlesnake).
